You can cycle from Paris to Milan, or vice versa, following the water. Rivers and canals become a natural compass, charting a route between France and Switzerland, passing locks, vineyards, villages, and cities of art, mostly following dedicated cycle paths, away from traffic.
The route I’m proposing is part of a longer journey from Paris to Cortina, which I cycled alone in February 2026, as a way to support M’Illumino di meno (I Light Up Less), the national day for energy saving and sustainable lifestyles created by Caterpillar, Rai Radio 2. The goal was to connect the venue of the last Summer Olympics with that of the current Winter Olympics, to explore the environmental issues related to the Games through meetings with experts and activists.
Since after Milan I’ve mainly followed AIDA Cycle route, which we’ve already described here, on this page we’ll only focus on the Paris/Milan section, hoping you’ll find some useful tips if you decide to ride this route.
PARIS GREEN CAPITAL
Over the past ten years, Mayor Anne Hidalgo has radically reshaped Paris, focusing on environmental sustainability, reducing car traffic, and creating more livable urban spaces. The French capital has seen a dramatic reduction in car ownership (-40% emissions in 10 years) and the expansion of the cycling network with hundreds of kilometers of new lanes, making cycling the preferred means of transportation. Exploring Paris by bike is safe and fun, and if you don’t have your own bike, you can take advantage of a vast bike-sharing network: we used Vélib’ Métropole.
SENNA AND YONNE RIVERS
We leave Paris on Eurovelo 3, which runs along the Seine. From the perfect bike paths in the city center, we pass through the industrial areas on the outskirts, and then pedal through some wooded stretches: the Seine will be our companion for about 90 km. Leaving EV3, which continues south, from Montereau-Fault-Yonne we begin riding along another important waterway in eastern France, the Seine’s main tributary: the Yonne River. We now follow Véloroute 55, which is mostly unpaved and somewhat wild, until we reach Maginnes after about 100 km. Along the way, a good place to stop is Sens.
CANAL DE BOURGOGNE
The Burgundy Canal (Canal de Bourgogne), a major 242 km waterway built between 1775 and 1832 that connects the Yonne and Saône rivers, joining the Seine and Rhône basins, begins in Maginnes and ends in of Saint-Jean-de-Losne. Featuring 189 locks, the cycling route follows paved and dirt towpaths through picturesque landscapes, castles, and historic villages such as Tonnerre and Tanlay. It’s an easy, flat, and safe route, ideal for those traveling with children. Don’t miss the Pouilly tunnel, a 3 km long underground tunnel that crosses the watershed between the Rhône and Seine basins, and the city of Dijon, which definitely deserves a day to be visited.
FROM FRANCE TO SWITZERLAND THROUGH JURA MOUNTAINS
After leaving the Burgundy Canal, we cycle for a few stretches along the Soana River and the Rhône-Rhine Canal, before beginning the climb along beautiful greenways, vineyards, and quiet roads toward the town of Champagnole, nicknamed the Pearl of the Jura. We are in the heart of the Jura department, the gateway to the Haut-Jura Regional Natural Park, near the source of the Seine River. We now have to cross the Jura Massif, a limestone mountain range that marks the border between France and Switzerland, cycling on scenic mountain roads up to 1.300 meters above sea level, passing by the beautiful Lac de Joux before descending toward Lake Geneva and Lausanne. Take some time to explore the medieval old town of Lausanne, take a dip in the lake from the Ouchy platforms, and visit the interesting Olympic Museum.
LAVAUX AND THE RHONE CYCLE PATH
Cycling through the UNESCO listed Lavaux wine terraces, which offer spectacular panoramic views of Lake Geneva and the Alps, is definitely one of the highlights of this journey. The lakeside towns of Vevey, Montraux, and the evocative Chillon Castle are worth a stop before arriving near Villeneuve, where the Rhône Cycle Route begins. About 120 km of protected cycling path, cycling through the vineyards of the Canton of Valais—the largest wine growing region in the country – will take us to Brig. Along the way, there are several beautiful towns worth stopping in, if you have time: Aigle, Sione, and Serre. A guided tour of Stockalper Castle in Brig is definitely not to be missed.
SIMPLON PASS
The Simplon Pass is an iconic Alpine climb between Italy and Switzerland, offering spectacular views. From Brig, the climb is long but steady (21 km with 1.331 m elevation gain), with the highest point at 2.005 m asl. Highlights include the old Hospice, the stone eagle, and the evocative Gondo gorge. Since I arrived in February and the pass was closed due to snow, I opted for the train, which connects Brig to Domodossola in just 30 minutes. If you don’t like climbs, consider this option… I’ll definitely be back to ride it!
TOCE CYCLE PATH AND LAKE MAGGIORE
The Toce Cycle Route is a 45 km nature trail that runs along the banks of the Toce River, from Domodossola to Lake Maggiore: a mix of bike paths, secondary paved roads, and many dirt stretches. Vogogna, one of the most beautiful villages in Italy, is worth a stop. Once the cycle route ends, you ride along Lake Maggiore, which offers beautiful panoramic views but, unfortunately, there are no bike paths, so you have to ride for 35 km on the road, and on weekends, traffic can be really heavy! I recommend an ice cream break on the lakeside promenade in Arona.
TICINO AND NAVIGLIO GRANDE TO MILAN
A unique glimpse of Lombardy, with rivers, dams, canals, and historic villas, almost entirely paved and on its own path. From Sesto Calende, you’ll begin riding along the Ticino River, continuing along the Villoresi Canal past the Panperduto Dam, where you can stop for lunch or even sleep in the charming hostel. You’ll then cycle along the Naviglio Grande to Abbiategrasso, where the canal turns, leaving the Ticino Park and entering the South Milan Agricultural Park. Porta Ticinese in Milan it’s now not so far.
