Cycling in Sicily means entering a different rhythm, made of silence and roads that tell stories. Sicily Divide crosses the island from west to east, passing through villages and mountains. Effort mixes with beauty, giving every day a surprises. More than a route, it’s an authentic way to experience Sicily.
Sicily Divide is a permanent cycling route that crosses lesser-known Sicily from Trapani or Palermo (where we started) to Catania. A challenging route of about 500 km with over 9,000 meters of elevation gain, that can be ridden on gravel, mountain bike, or road bike (there’s also a completely road route). Before setting off, you can request the Divider’s Pass to collect stamps along the route, and then collect a certificate of completion upon arrival.
Aside from Palermo and Catania, two beautiful cities that deserve some time to be visited, the highlights of our journey were: the mosaics of Monreale Cathedral, Burri’s Cretto, Sambuca di Sicilia, cycling in the Monti Sicani Park, Mussomeli Castle, the Granfonte di Leonforte, the cassatelle of Agira, and the descent towards Catania with a view of Mount Etna.
DAY 1: PALERMO/GIBELLINA – 82km/1.550m D+
We took a day to visit Palermo; this is actually day two of the trip, even though it’s the first one on a bike. We set off immediately uphill to Monreale, where you can’t miss a visit to the Duomo. New Gibellina is a truly ugly little town, but it’s worth a stroll to discover the interesting art works. We spent the night at B&B Mille e una notte, and dinner at Macelleria Gastronomia Gentile. We stayed overnight in Palermo at Eccelso.
DAY 2: GIBELLINA/SAMBUCA DI SICILIA – 63km/1.200m D+
We’re in the Belice Valley, devastated by the terrible earthquake of 1968: cycling through Burri’s Cretto is a thrilling experience. Take a stroll through the Saracen neighborhood of Sambuca and up to Calvario viewpoint to admire the view and look for the “snails.” We spent the night in Stanze dell’Emiro and dine at Sol e sale.
DAY 3: SAMBUCA DI SICILIA/SANTO STEFANO QUISQUINA – 64km/1.620m D+
The route begins on a beautiful bike path along a former railway line, but the stage is challenging, especially the last few kilometers from Bivona onward. There are several accommodation options in Santo Stefano Q., but if you still have energy, we recommend continuing on to Agriturismo Serra Moneta, where the welcome and food are very good.
DAY 4: SANTO STEFANO QUISQUINA/MONTEDORO – 62km/1.050m D+
We’re at about 1,000 meters above sea level and set off riding through the Sicani Mountains Park. The beautiful Manfredonic Castle in Mussomeli is worth a stop. We spend the night at the former Montedoro school, and had dinner at the Cupolette Rosse.
DAY 5: MONTEDORO/ENNA – 71km/1.530m D+
Another tough stage, but with beautiful landscapes that will make you forget the effort. Highly recommended is a lunch break at Panificio Giglio in Caltanissetta. The climb to Enna is challenging and busy, but at the top, the castle and a splendid view await. We spent the night in the center of town at B&B Proserpina, followed by dinner at Bistrò Paradiso (the same owners as the B&B).
DAY 6: ENNA/REGALBUTO – 67km /1.330m D+
Don’t miss Leoforte’s monumental fountain with its 24 spouts, and the delicious cassatelle from Agira. We dined and stayed near Lake Pozzillo at La Doce Vita, but if you don’t feel like climbing the steep hill again, consider staying in the center of Regalbuto.
DAY 7: REGALBUTO/CATANAI – 68km/1.000m D+
Spectacular views of Mount Etna accompany this final leg of the journey. The village of Centuripe is worth a stop, where you can sample the traditional Bersagliere biscuit. The road into Catania is very busy, but the thrill of arriving in Piazza Duomo beneath the Elephant Fountain will make you forget it. Overnight stay at Hotel Il Principe.
BONUS TRAK: MOUNT ETNA TREKKING
This is a hike on the southern slope of Etna, but we recommend it because we loved it. You can reach the Sapeinza Refuge, at 1,900 meters above sea level, by bus or private transfer. From there, you take the cable car up to 2,500 meters above sea level, where you continue on foot: the trek lasts about 3 hours (6 km with 550 meters of elevation gain), and a volcanological guide is mandatory. At the base of the cable car, there are several tour operators who organize the trek and rent boots and down jackets. More info here.
