Lunigiana is a historical region located in the northernmost part of Tuscany, on the border with Liguria and Emilia-Romagna: it’s a land of medieval villages and castles, of fascinating mountains covered by ancient woods and furrowed by crystalline streams.

Born from the ancient medieval diocese of Luni, a Roman colony founded in the second century B.C. at the mouth of the Magra River, it still retains the charm of a borderland, far from the frenzy of mass tourism. Lost among the valleys that open at the foot of the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines and the Apuan Alps, it’s a perfect territory for an adventure in MTB to discover the solitary villages on the hills and good food. Ride along with us!


Leaving the car in Pontremoli, after a quick visit to the beautiful center, I started cycling south following the river Magra. Soon after, however, I started to climb and found myself in the woods, following the path of Lunigiana Trail. The woods are so thick that you can ride even in summer heat; some climbs are very steep and with a very disconnected terrain, so I had to push! It’s worth a stop in Bagnone, which is very nice. For the night I placed my tent near the farmhouse Montagna Verde in Apella, where I highly recommend you to have dinner. Warning: in the woods there is no phone coverage!


After the departure downhill you face immediately a long climb, which gradually becomes more disconnected (even here I pushed a lot), but at the top you’ll have a wonderful view. Ecqui Terme is a little gem that I didn’t know, but where it’s worth a stop because there are nice things to do: visit the beautiful caves and swim in the natural thermal pools. Night camping in the garden of B&B Villa Tonelli.


On the morning of the third day I opted for a route entirely on the road, which however is very beautiful and with no traffic… It passes by the places of memory and reaches the castle of Fosindovo, that has a beautiful sea view. To get to Aulla I followed again the Lunigiana Trail dirt road, which in this section is entirely ridable as it is mainly flat and downhill. The final stretch, from Apella to Pontremoli, I cycled along the Via Francigena, with a photo stop at the pretty castle of Lusuolo.